Posted by Chris Thompson on Fri, Dec 02, 2011 @ 01:41 PM
According to the EPA, the indoor air we are exposed to is 70% more polluted than the outdoor air and studies show that the average American spends nearly 90% of their time indoors. This puts us all at a greater risk of contracting various diseases from indoor air pollutants. The EPA actually ranks poor indoor air quality among the top five public health risks.
Your HVAC (Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning) systems air filters should be changed not when they're dirty but on frequently planned intervals. During peak seasons (summer and winter) your system is working much harder and therefore your air filter will need to be checked and replaced more often. It’s a fairly simple and basic concept, the dirtier your air filter is the harder your system will need to work to heat or cool your home. Not only will it need to work harder, it will perform less efficiently and the added strain on your system will shorten its life expectancy considerably.
Benefits of changing your air filter:
- Healthier indoor air. An air filter’s job is to keep the air in your home clear of dusts, molds, pollens and other contaminants, which can worsen allergies and can cause diseases. By changing out your filter on a regular basis you insure you are not re-circulating dust, molds, pollens and other contaminants back through your system and into your home.
- Increase efficiency & save money. A dirty filter will slow down air flow and make your system work harder to keep you warm or cool — wasting energy and decreasing the efficiency of your system. When your system is not working as efficiently as it should, it is using more energy, which means you will be paying more to heat or cool your home.
- Increase longevity of your heating & cooling system. An air filter’s job is also to keep the interior of your HVAC system clean. According to Energy Star, a joint venture of the EPA and US Dept. of Energy, “Dirt and neglect are the #1 causes of heating and cooling system failure.” A clean filter will prevent dust and dirt from building up in the system — leading to expensive maintenance and/or early system failure.
- Environmentally conscious. When filters aren’t clean, it makes your system work harder to give you cooler (or warmer) air. This means more energy is used and wasted energy means more pollution. The more electricity you consume, the more carbon dioxide and other green house gases you release in the air. We all need to do our part to help the environment when and wherever we can – our motto at John C. Flood “Think Green, We Do!”
Filters should always be changed or cleaned based on the manufacturer’s recommendations. It’s probably the easiest thing to do to keep your HVAC system clean, running efficiently, reduce your maintenance costs and extend the overall life of your system.
Posted by Chris Thompson on Tue, Nov 29, 2011 @ 09:16 AM
There are in fact two plumbing/HVAC companies operating under the name John C. Flood within the Metro DC area. Same name offering the same services, but very different views on customer service. We wanted to let all our previous and current customers know that we work hard to earn your business, and more importantly, your repeat business. We are John C. Flood Inc. (Dba John C. Flood of VA Inc.) with our main office located in Alexandria, Virginia.
The two John C. Floods were indeed one company over a decade ago and broke apart for the very simple reason, a very different view on how to treat customers and the level of service you provide. Listen, we are no strangers to the laws of the service industry and the mantra “You can’t please everyone all the time, only some of the people some of the time.”
We strive to meet and exceed your expectations on every job and that has been our creed for over 100 years. We work hard to make every job, big or small, a success for our customers and occasionally we do not meet your expectations. It’s with this in mind that we work hard to correct any outstanding issues so that our customers walk away with a positive experience.
Happy customers are our best referrals and we always want to make things right.
With over 30,000 jobs performed each year we can still say we have many more pleased customers than displeased. With that said, we don’t like to hear the level of service we strive to provide was not maintained and the result, an unhappy customer.
John C. Flood has been around for a long time, serving the Washington, DC, Northern Virginia and Maryland areas with plumbing, heating, air conditioning, electrical, water mains, sewer drains, and bath remodeling services.
We just wanted to let all our current and potential customers know the story and hope we can continue to provide dependable and quality service.
If you have any questions, concerns, kudos or if you were unhappy with our service we want to hear from you. You can email us at service@johncflood.com.
We are proud to have been named The Best of Service Alley Winner in 2011 in Heating & Cooling.
Posted by Chris Thompson on Fri, Nov 18, 2011 @ 09:36 AM
John C. Flood is proud to announce it has signed an endorsement deal with former 3-time Pro Bowl Redskins linebacker Lavar Arrington. LaVar has always been one of the most vocal players in the NFL and he’s not going to stop now. He’s on the other side of the mic, giving D.C. sports fans the real deal behind what happens on and off the field. Arrington is no stranger to broadcasting; he was part of the 2007 and 2008 NFL Season regular line-up on Comcast SportsNet.
LaVar is currently the host of The LaVar Arrington Show with Chad Dukes weekdays from 2-7 PM on 106.7 The Fan.
John C. Flood has been providing plumbing, air conditioning, heating, electrical, Kitchen & Bath Remodeling services to the Metro DC, Northern Virginia and Maryland areas for over 100 years. We are excited about this arrangement with LaVar Arrington and we are looking forward to providing excellent plumbing, HVAC & Remodeling services.
For more on The LaVar Arrington Show with Chad Dukes visit 106.7 The Fan.
For more information on all the services John C. Flood offers as well as current promotions and specials visit John C. Flood.
Posted by Chris Thompson on Tue, Nov 08, 2011 @ 11:34 AM
It's easy to forget, even on our worst days, there are many people who have it much, much worse then we do.
All of us at John C. Flood realize the plight and severity of the homeless problem, especially in and around the Metro DC area. It's for this reason we have teamed up with Carpenter's Shelter based in Alexandria, Virginia to provide regular necessities such as food items, volunteer time and plumbing, heating, air conditioning and electrical services to their shelter for the homeless.
We had a chance to visit the shelter recently and we were moved by the quality of care provided to their clients before, during and even after their stay at the shelter. It's shelters like the Carpenter's Shelter that are sorely needed within the Washington DC Metro Area and throughout the country.
For the Thanksgiving holiday John C. Flood will be donating 30 turkey's and a variety of items needed to provide their holiday meal. On an on-going basis we will provide in-kind donations as well as provide plumbing, heating, air conditioning and electrical service work to the shelter.
The Carpenter's Shelter is an award-winning homeless program based in Northern Virginia, dedicated to offering housing and hope through respect, responsibility and results. Over the past 24 years, Carpenter's Shelter has grown to a full center of learning, and helps children, families and adults stabilize thier lives and overcome homelessness.
We are happy to be teaming up with Carpenter's Shelter and they are always looking for in-kind donations and volunteers. Visit Carpenter's Shelter
Posted by Chris Thompson on Tue, Oct 11, 2011 @ 01:03 PM
Heat Pump’s, like central air conditioners, have an outdoor unit that contains a compressor, a coil, a fan, and other components. To function properly, this unit should be kept free of debris such as leaves and dirt. The unit should be level on its support pad, which is often concrete or heavy-duty plastic.
Clean pine needles, leaves, and dirt out of updraft fans by removing the grille, which are typically held to the frame by a series of retaining screws. Make sure the power to the unit is off before tackling this type of cleaning. A vacuum cleaner hose can sometimes be inserted between the fan blades to remove debris from the sides and bottom of the unit.
At the beginning of each heating season, set a carpenters' level across the top of the metal cabinet and check the level from side to side and from front to back. If the unit is no longer level on the pad, lift the pad back to level by prying it up with a pry bar or a piece of 2-by-4. Build up the ground under it with stone or crushed rock. If your units’ support pad is made of concrete it may be more difficult to do this, so you may need to contact a service professional to help you. Also check the piping insulation for deterioration. If this insulation is faulty, replace it with new insulation, available at heating supply stores. Installation instructions are usually provided by the manufacturer.
If your heat pump has been off for more than an hour because of a blown fuse, a tripped circuit breaker, or a utility power failure, the unit should NOT be operated for approximately six to eight hours, especially if the temperature is 50 degrees Fahrenheit or lower.
The lubricant in the pump's oil reservoir may have become too cool to circulate properly and may cause damage to the valves of the unit. Instead, set the pump on emergency heat. This turns the pump off and keeps it from running.
Leave the heat pump in this mode for approximately six to eight hours, than switch the pump to its normal heating setting. If little or no heat is generated at this point, call a professional service technician for service or repairs.
For Do-It-Yourself Video's Click Here
Posted by Chris Thompson on Tue, Oct 04, 2011 @ 01:33 PM
Carbon Monoxide Can Be Deadly
You can’t see or smell carbon monoxide, but at high levels it can kill a person in minutes. Carbon monoxide (CO) is produced whenever any fuel such as gas, oil, kerosene, wood, or charcoal is burned. If appliances that burn fuel are maintained and used properly, the amount of CO produced is usually not hazardous. However, if appliances are not working properly or are used incorrectly, dangerous levels of CO can result. Hundreds of people die every year from CO poisoning caused by malfunctioning or improperly used fuel-burning appliances. Even more die from CO produced by idling cars. Fetuses, infants, elderly people, and people with anemia or with a history of heart or respiratory disease can be especially susceptible. A short list of potential sources of CO are your oil or gas furnace, gas water heater, gas range or oven, gas dryer, gas or kerosene space heater and any vehicle or small engine.
CO Poisoning Symptoms
Know the symptoms of CO poisoning. At moderate levels, you or your family can get severe headaches, become dizzy, mentally confused, nauseated, or faint. Low levels can cause shortness of breath, mild nausea, and mild headaches, and may have longer term effects on your health. Since many of these symptoms are similar to those of the flu, food poisoning, or other illnesses, you may not think that CO poisoning could be the cause.
How can I prevent CO poisoning? Now you would think that many of these items should be obvious and follow basic common sense, but alas we cannot rely on wide-spread universal common sense.
- Make sure appliances are installed and operated according to the manufacturer's instructions and local building codes. Most appliances should be installed by qualified professionals. Have your heating system professionally inspected and serviced annually to ensure proper operation. The inspector should also check chimneys and flues for blockages, corrosion, partial and complete disconnections, and loose connections.
- Never service fuel-burning appliances without proper knowledge, skill and tools. Always refer to the owners’ manual when performing minor adjustments or servicing fuel-burning equipment.
- Never operate a portable generator or any other gasoline engine-powered tool either in or near an enclosed space such as a garage, house, or other building. Even with open doors and windows, these spaces can trap CO and allow it to quickly build to lethal levels.
- Install a CO alarm that meets the requirements of the current UL 2034 safety standard. A CO alarm can provide some added protection, but it is no substitute for proper use and upkeep of appliances that can produce CO. Install a CO alarm in the hallway near every separate sleeping area of the home. Make sure the alarm cannot be covered up by furniture or draperies.
- Never use portable fuel-burning camping equipment inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent unless it is specifically designed for use in an enclosed space and provides instructions for safe use in an enclosed area.
- Never burn charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle, or tent.
- Never leave a car running in an attached garage, even with the garage door open.
- Never use gas appliances such as ranges, ovens, or clothes dryers to heat your home.
- Never operate unvented fuel-burning appliances in any room where people are sleeping.
- Do not cover the bottom of natural gas or propane ovens with aluminum foil. Doing so blocks the combustion air flow through the appliance and can produce CO.
- During home renovations, ensure that appliance vents and chimneys are not blocked by tarps or debris. Make sure appliances are in proper working order when renovations are complete.
Be sure to get your home heating system inspected sooner rather than later.
Posted by Chris Thompson on Tue, Sep 20, 2011 @ 02:07 PM
John C. Flood of VA will be exhibiting at the Capital Home Show September 23-25, 2011 at the Dulles Expo Center in Chantilly, Virginia.
The Capital Home Show has over 15,000 qualified homeowners who are searching for the best products and services in remodeling and home decor. So if you're in the market for building & remodeling, kitchens & bathrooms, outdoor living, interior design & decorating, furnishings & accessories, green living, shopping & lifestyles or financial & professional services then this show is for you.
We will providing information and materials promoting our plumbing, heating, air conditioning, electrical, bath & kitchen remodeling services and more. This is an excellent show for all homeowners and we would love to get a chance to talk with you about your needs and how we can help you. Stop by booth #446 to meet us and register to win a TOTO Washlet personal care system (the first Washlet seat that combines the convenience of a hands-free flush and cleaning system - $500 value - installation not included).
We will have plenty of goodies to give-away but supplies are limited.
On a separate note, Fall is here so be sure you get your Fall System Maintenance check-up to be sure your system is running efficiently before the cold moves in for the season.
We look forward to meeting you this weekend at the Capital Home Show. For information on the Capital Home Show Click Here.
If you plan to attend the Capital Home Show we are offering you $4 off the price of addmission if you purchase your tickets online. Click the logo below.
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Posted by Chris Thompson on Thu, Sep 08, 2011 @ 12:56 PM
When your house floods, the water can wreak havoc on the structural integrity of your home, damage or destroy personal belongings as well as increased chances of indoor health hazards. Flood waters contain many contaminants and lots of mud. High dollar items can get ruined very quickly, even with just an inch of water. A more severe storm or deeper flood may add damage to even more expensive systems, like: ducts, the heater and air conditioner, roofing, private sewage and well systems, utilities, and the foundation.
After a flood, cleaning up is a long and arduous process. Below is a list of common techniques for sanitizing and cleaning flooded items:
First thing: call your insurance agent. Most homeowner insurance policies do not cover flood damage within a standard policy. Most often you would need to purchase additional flood insurance through your current or alternate carrier. List damages and take photos or videotape as you clean. You'll need complete records for insurance claims, applications for disaster assistance and income tax deductions.
Contaminated mud
- Shovel out as much mud as possible, than use a garden sprayer or hose to wash away mud from hard surfaces.
- Clean and disinfect every surface. Scrub surfaces with hot water and a heavy-duty cleaner. Then disinfect with a solution of 1/4 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water or a product that is labeled as a disinfectant to kill germs.
Furniture and household items
- Take furniture, rugs, bedding and clothing outside to dry as soon as possible. Use an air conditioner or dehumidifier to remove moisture and/or open at least two windows to ventilate the area. Use fans to circulate air in the house. If mold and mildew have already developed, brush off the items outdoors to prevent scattering the spores in the house. Vacuum floors, ceilings and walls to remove mildew, then wash with disinfectant. Wear a two-strap protective mask to prevent breathing mold spores.
- Mattresses should be thrown away.
- Upholstered furniture soaks up contaminants from floodwaters and should be cleaned only by a professional.
- Wood veneered furniture is usually not worth the cost and effort of repair.
- Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe.
- Toys and stuffed animals may have to be thrown away if they've been contaminated by floodwaters.
- Photographs, books and important papers can be frozen and cleaned later. They should be dried carefully and slowly. Wash the mud off and store the articles in plastic bags and put them in a frost-free freezer to protect from mildew and further damage until you have time to thaw and clean them or take them to a professional.
Ceilings and walls
- Wallboard acts like a sponge when wet. Remove wallboard, plaster and paneling to at least the flood level. If soaked by contaminated floodwater, it can be a permanent health hazard and should be removed. If most of the wallboard was soaked by clean rainwater, consider cutting a 4- to 12-inch-high section from the bottom and top of walls. This creates a "chimney effect" of air movement for faster drying. A reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade works well, but use only the tip of the blade and watch out for pipes, ductwork and wiring.
- Plaster and paneling can often be saved, but air must be circulated in the wall cavities to dry the studs and sills.
- The three kinds of insulation must be treated differently. Styrofoam might only need to be hosed off. Fiberglass batts should be thrown out if muddy, but may be reused if dried thoroughly. Loose or blown-in cellulose should be replaced since it holds water for a long time and can lose its antifungal and fire retardant abilities.
Electrical system
- The system must be shut off and repaired and inspected by an electrician before it can be turned back on. Wiring must be completely dried out- even behind walls. Switches, convenience outlets, light outlets, entrance panel, and junction boxes that have been under water may be filled with mud.
Heating and cooling systems and ducts
- Your Central heating and cooling system will need inspection and cleaning. Flood-soaked insulation should be replaced.
Appliances
- Appliances will get stains, odors, silt deposits, and gritty deposits and need to be serviced, cleaned and sanitized. Running equipment before it is properly cleaned could seriously damage it and/or shock you. Professional cleaning is recommended for electronics, TVs and radios, washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, and vacuum cleaners. The hard exterior can be hand cleaned. All metallic appliances that have been flooded should be properly grounded to prevent electric shock. Mud or dirt in a grounded outlet or adapter may prevent the grounding system from working, and you could be electrocuted.
Pump out the basement
- If your basement is full or nearly full of water, pump out just 2 or 3 feet of water each day. If you drain the basement too quickly, the pressure outside the walls will be greater than the pressure inside the walls. That may make the walls and floor crack and collapse.
Carpeting
- Clean and dry carpets and rugs as quickly as possible. If sewage-contaminated floodwater covered your carpeting, discard it for health safety reasons. Also discard if the carpet was under water for 24 hours or more. To clean, drape carpets and rugs outdoors and hose them down. Work a disinfecting carpet cleaner into soiled spots with a broom. To discourage mildew and odors, rinse with a solution of 2 tablespoons bleach to 1 gallon water, but don't use this solution on wool or nylon carpets. Dry the carpet and floor thoroughly before replacing the carpet. Padding is nearly impossible to clean so should be replaced. If the carpet can't be removed, dry it as quickly as possible using a wet/dry vacuum and dehumidifier. Use a fan to circulate air above the carpet, and if possible, lift the carpet and ventilate with fans underneath.
- Vinyl flooring and floor tile may need to be removed to allow drying of subfloor.
Wood floors
- Wooden floors should be dried gradually. Sudden drying could cause cracking or splitting. Some restoration companies can accelerate drying time by forcing air through the fluted underside of hardwood floorboards. Remove hardwood floor boards to prevent buckling. Remove a board every few feet to reduce buckling caused by swelling. Clean and dry wood before attempting repairs.
Roof damage and leaks
- Defective flashing- Flashing is the sheet metal used in waterproofing roof valleys, hips and the angle between a chimney and a roof. Wet spots near a chimney or outside wall may mean the leak is caused by defective flashing, narrow flashing or loose mortar joints. Look for corroded, loose or displaced flashing on sloping roof valleys and at junctions of dormers and roof.
- Clogged downspouts or eaves- Check for choked downspouts. Accumulated water or snow on the roof above the flashing may cause a leak. Ice accumulations on eaves sometimes form ridges, which cause melting snow to back up under the shingles.
- Cracks and deterioration- Roofing (especially wood or composition shingles) usually deteriorates first on southern exposures. Check southern slopes for cracking or deterioration.
- Holes- Missing shingles or holes in the roofing may be causing wet spots. To find holes, check for a drip trail or spot of light coming through in the attic. Stick a nail, straw or wire through the hole to mark the spot on the outside.
Private sewage systems
- Flooding of a private sewage system can be a hazardous situation for homeowners. It may lead to a back-up of sewage in the home, contaminated drinking water and lack of sanitation until the system is fixed. When flooding or saturated soil conditions persist, a private sewage system cannot function properly. Soil treatment systems for wastewater rely on aerobic (with oxygen) regions to reduce the amounts of chemicals and living organisms (viruses, bacteria and protozoa). When the soil is saturated or flooded, those hazardous materials can enter the groundwater and your drinking water supply.
Posted by Chris Thompson on Fri, Aug 26, 2011 @ 02:43 PM
Over the last few days we have been inundated with calls from customers needing to have their water heater serviced or replaced. This is due to the heavy rattling the earthquake provided this past Tuesday, so if you haven't checked it might be a good idea to make sure your water heater is functioning properly.
- Make sure there are no obvious leaks from incoming or outgoing piping
- Make sure your water heater is sitting level
- If your water heater runs on gas make sure the connection is still secure and there are no leaks (smell of gas, etc)
Most assume their water heater is secure during installation, which typical installations certainly make sure it's level and connections are secure but most are not earthquake proof. Severe shaking and rattling, like what occurred during this past earthquake have caused a large number of our customers to have their water heaters damaged.
We have had a crazy week with the Earthquake and subsequent after-shocks and now with Hurricane Irene hot on our tails it looks as though things may get worse.
If you are experiencing any issues with your water heater that you cannot diagnose and troubleshoot on your own contact us and we'll send out a service technician to sort things out for you right away.
Posted by Chris Thompson on Fri, Aug 26, 2011 @ 11:04 AM
Guide to Inspecting Sump Pumps
With Hurrican Irene only days from slamming into the Washington DC Metro area one of the major issues will be intense steady rain, flash flooding and yes, basement flooding.
Sump pumps remove unwanted water, such as surface or ground water that leak into a building. A sump pump is normally installed in a pit at the low end of a basement or crawl space floor or in another location where water needs to be removed such as in a boiler pit or an outdoor well pit.
Sump Pump inspection list
- Water or Sump Pump Alarm protection: where a sump pump is relied-upon to keep water out of a building, good practice includes an alarm to inform someone when the pump is not operating. Various systems use a detector which senses water on a building floor near the sump pump.
- Water alarms can sound an alarm to building occupants, turn on a light in a window for a neighbor to see, notify a security service, or even place a telephone call to report this condition. We recommend this protection for any building which is left unattended for long periods.
- Battery backup sump pump systems: in areas prone to power failures the sump pump may be a battery-backup installation. The batteries are connected to a charging system and are available to operate the pump when area electrical power has been lost.
- Turn off the electrical power to the charger and confirm that the pump is running on battery power. Review the specifications for the system to determine whether or not the pump may be able to continue to operate on battery power for the typical length of time that electrical power is lost.
- Mechanical security: If a pedestal sump pump is installed, is it secured against tipping over? A tipped pump will jam its float and stop working.
- Motor switch & Electric Motor: Does the pump's electric motor turn on in response to the float?
- Pump impeller assembly: does the pump actually move water when the motor runs? Impellers can and should be cleaned of dirt, pebbles, and mineral deposits to keep the pump operating efficiently.
- Check valve: is a check valve installed on the sump pump discharge line? If not water will run back into the sump pit each time the pump shuts off.
- This defect causes extra cycles of pump operation and may reduce pump or switch life; in odd circumstances such as a sump pump discharge line into a stream, it can even back-siphon outdoor water into the sump pit and into the building.
- Discharge line security: sump pumps cause a sudden surge in water through the discharge pipe when the pump comes on.
- Many sump pump installations use a flexible discharge pipe which is not adequately secured. As a result, each time the pump cycles on and off the flexible discharge pipe jerks and moves across various contact surfaces. We've seen this result in holes worn into the discharge pipe so that each time the sump pump cycled on it sprayed water across the basement.
- Trip hazards: Is the sump pit protected against someone tripping or falling into it?
- If radon is a problem in the area, is a radon-cover installed over the sump pit?
- Sump Pump pit openings: Is the sump well or bucket properly opened to permit ground water to enter the pit directly? Our first home had a basement sump pump installed in a water tight steel bucket the builder had pushed through the basement floor.
- Water had to rise under the basement floor, leak into the basement, run across the floor, and then be pumped away. Making holes in that bucket allowed the pump to draw water from below the basement slab. It lowered the water table and stopped water from entering the basement through the foundation walls.
- Sump pump water destination: is the pump delivering water to a legal destination and one which will not send water flowing back towards the building? Water should be discharged no less than 20 ft. from the building and to a spot which drains away from the building. We discuss sump pump discharge routing at Sump Pump Discharge
- In a bad building water entry situation water runs across the basement/crawl space floor into the sump pit where it is pumped away (after already wetting the building and inviting a mold contamination problem).
- This condition pertains when water is entering a building through foundation walls, often because the roof drainage or surface runoff are directed right against the building foundation itself. Keeping gutters and leaders working and correcting outside drainage errors are critical in keeping water out of a building. Doesn't it make more sense to prevent water from coming into a building than to let it in and then pump it out?
- In a good situation, openings in the sides and bottom of the sump pit, or an under-floor drainage system direct subsurface water into the sump pit before the ground water level rises enough to send water into the building. Over several years of operation, and partly by pumping a little soil silt as it operates, a sump pump may actually improve the flow of under-floor water into the sump pit, thus reducing building water entry.